Tea And Slippers

Linda Lou Burton posting from Mbuzi Mawe Serena Tented Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania– This time, a photo first! I stopped at the door (flap) of our tent for a picture before I even stepped inside. I wanted to remember what it looked like before we mucked it up with all our stuff. This was our third tent camp – remember Sweetwaters on the Ol Pejeta, overlooking the Water Hole? And Sarova in the Maasai Mara, with the monkey on the porch that overlooked a creek? I dearly loved both; for all the pretense of being a “rugged safari camp” while providing 24-hour room service, 24-hour hot water in a luxury shower, permanent rooftops and floors, they still managed to create a sense of wilderness privacy with a real-life soundtrack of the animal world. The tea and slippers? A touch of home.

It was 4 PM when we reached our tent; our day began before dawn. Packing, luggage out, breakfast, checking out. An hour for the traffic jam, an hour for the wildebeest watch. A few brief stops for quickie animal shots or random things such as paperwork at the airstrip, and helping someone with a flat tire. Two hours late for lunch, we were rushed into the dining room on arrival (they wheelchaired me in through the staff’s quarters where the only sidewalk exists). And so we ate, ordering from a menu no less, a menu encased in leather; courses served, slowly and politely. Finally, our tent! The rest of the gang was hurrying, yep, get back in the 4x4s for a game drive before dark! Basically everything I’d seen so far today was from third row back in a 4×4.  People! Crowded! Blocked views! Blurry photos! The rest of my day was an easy choice to make: tea and slippers, on my porch. See my unhindered view of the kopjes across my grassy yard? See the little hyrax, asleep on the other side of the rail? Now, there’s an idea, I’m thinking. I have a giant lounge chair to stretch out on for a nap of my own. Why would anyone be anywhere else in the world? Progressions of the day below.

The scoop on the rock hyrax, which lives on the rock outcroppings all around our camp. They resemble pikas, or marmots, but design-wise, are more closely related to elephants!

• They are furry and rotund, with short tails.
• They weigh 5-10 pounds and are 12-28 inches long.
• Their tusks develop from incisor teeth as do the tusks of elephants; most mammalian tusks develop from the canines.
• Their nails are flat, as they are on elephants, rather than curved and elongated as on most mammals.
• There are several complex body arrangements regarding reproduction that are similar in hyraxes, elephants, and manatees (sea cows).

We were advised to keep the tent flap zipped at all times, as the little fellows are very curious by nature!

Mbuzi Mawe Serena Tented Camp https://www.serenahotels.com/mbuzi-mawe

Serengeti National Park https://www.serengeti.com/

Next Post: There’s An Elephant In My Yard

Animals, Yes

Linda Lou Burton posting from Mbuzi Mawe Serena Tented Camp, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania– Believe it or not! We actually spotted animals today once we really got going. Lots of them, in fact. Yes, we saw lions (sleeping). Yes, we saw hippos (sleeping). And boy oh boy did we see wildebeests (definitely NOT sleeping), the number of which surprised even our guide. The day began with pretty giraffes, closeup; giraffes have been on my Top 5 List since that day in Nairobi when I fed them, face to face. They are so graceful, and easy-going. Zebras are also on my Top 5. Have you noticed in photos – a zebra looks good from any angle. Their faces are nicely proportioned; turn them around and their rumps are too! Their tails cover what tails do not cover on baboons (ach!) and are nicely braided at the tip. And a side view of a zebra is pleasant to look at too; a nice black and white stripe; they’re always neatly dressed and easy to spot in a crowd. Now, here is your Animal Question of the Day: WHY, as we observed clearly this afternoon, do zebras and wildebeests hang out together? Wildebeests, aka gnus, are of the antelope family (I learned today) and though they may be good partners with zebras, share no resemblance whatsoever. Their manes and tails are dark and shaggy; they have broad muzzles, Roman noses, and curving horns. What makes them such good partners, especially during migration times?

One simple reason, as they both go hunting for fresh grasslands: zebras love the taller grasses; wildebeest prefer short grasses. Like Jack Sprat and his wife, they are perfect partners when it comes to dinnertime. But there’s more: zebras have great eyesight and wildebeests have a good sense of smell. All helpful to each other for predator alerts (zebra eyesight) and finding water (wildebeest smell). Wildebeests also have “swarm intelligence” which means they are good at solving problems as a group. It was a thrill to watch this partnership in action today! The pictures below are NOT of the same wildebeests over and over; many were moving, over the period of an hour; watch for zebras in the crowd. Wow! as some might say. The sleeping lion was just as we entered the Park; the sleeping hippos were before we reached the wildebeests; the last animal I saw in this busy animal day was a hyrax, sleeping beside the porch of my tent. A hyrax looks much like a pika, or marmot, but guess what, boys and girls – it is more closely related to the elephant! And that is a story for the next post.

Serengeti National Park https://www.serengeti.com/

Mbuzi Mawe Serena Tented Camp https://www.serenahotels.com/mbuzi-mawe

Next Post: Tea and Slippers

Damn! That Traffic Jam

Linda Lou Burton posting from Serengeti National Park, Tanzania– “Looking in my rear-view mirror I saw myself in the next car back.” My entertainment was observing what everybody else was doing, as I hummed a tune from way back in my James Taylor days. Damn! that traffic jam. This time it wasn’t Ben’s fault that we were running late. In fact, Ben, (at least he claims) is responsible for resolving the middle-of-nowhere traffic jam we found ourselves in at Checkpoint Serengeti. “I called the President’s Office!” he declared, face contorted in anger. “The President of Tanzania?” we asked, unbelieving. “You bet!” was his answer. “This is no way to promote tourism in Tanzania!” Ben paced back and forth between our two 4x4s, ranting a bit as he told his story.

There is no fence around the Serengeti, no guarded gate as at many national parks to monitor who goes in and out. But there is a checkpoint on the road, where every vehicle is stopped to pay fees and register. All this information is then fed into a computer. Today, however, the computer was DOWN. So, the “data collector” PIC (person in charge) simply disallowed entry any further into the Park! Trucks were backed up; buses were backed up; and worst of all (for the tourism industry) SAFARI vehicles were backed up! Ben (remember, he’s working on his Masters in Tourism) suggested, over and over to today’s PIC “Just write the information on PAPER! You can enter it into the computer LATER.” Said PIC was too scared to go against protocol UNTIL – Ben made his phone call to the President’s Office. Ben declared that the President himself made the phone call back that unplugged our traffic jam.

Following are photos I took from my seat in the 4×4 as I watched what people do in times like this. Some folks, I noted, just say “pole, pole,” an attitude it’s often useful to adopt.

Serengeti National Park https://www.serengeti.com/

 Mbuzi Mawe Serena Tented Camp https://www.serenahotels.com/mbuzi-mawe

 Next Post: Animals, Yes

Famous Restrooms

Linda Lou Burton posting from Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania– I thought of Glenny today. A coworker from way back in the 80s, she made the funniest remark about vacation photos I’ve ever heard. This was the era of the Brownie-Camera-Kodak-Film mode of remembering, when you couldn’t afford to take 20 shots of the same rock. Nor did you know how a shot would turn out until weeks after you returned home, got your six rolls developed, and stuck your 34 decent photos in an album. Glenny’s remark was “We always forgot to take pictures until we got out of the car at a restroom. So we’d ‘family group’ in front of the restroom doors and smile. My albums are Famous Restrooms of the World.”

My gangmates and I didn’t “group up” in front of restroom doors today, but we did take photos INSIDE a positively glamorous construction as we blathered on about IT (the restroom) without even having a clue as to WHERE we were. I suppose, having signed up for a “safari tour” that was designed to see as many wild animals in Africa as possible, it wouldn’t be part of the Guide Dialog to focus on archeological and/or cultural sites, so when our 4x4s turned right at the “skulls” and then stopped at a washroom, no mention was made that we were stopping at some part of the Olduvai Gorge-Leakey Research-Museum complex. We didn’t get to the Museum, but heck, I surely “went” where early people “went” a few million years ago, according to the Leakeys. “Well, good on ya’, Mary and Louis Leakey,” I thought to myself. “Glenny, here’s one for the Famous Album!”

We left Ngorongoro Serena Lodge at 8:30, passed the skulls at 9:30,  and arrived at the Serengeti National Park Gate at 10:30, if you want to track our dirt-road route past all the things I mentioned in my last Post. Following are photos of what we saw, beginning with the giraffe on the Crater rim early on. Know why there are no giraffes IN the Crater? The descent is too steep for their long slender legs and neck. Note the herders and donkeys on their way to get water, the dry plains, the water sources, the everything. Funny – just as I said I’d never seen a dog helping with the Maasai herding, there was a frisky dog! Everyone waved. 

Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority https://www.ncaa.go.tz/

Mbuzi Mawe Serena Tented Camp https://www.serenahotels.com/mbuzi-mawe

Next Post: Damn! That Traffic Jam

Squiggles On The Map

Linda Lou Burton posting from Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania– This is about the NCA. Remember that map I bought at the Visitor Center? At the end of that overbooked day when Ben lectured so long we were two hours late getting to the Lodge? Well, truth be told, I didn’t retain much of what he said, but I have since been studying my $6 topographical map. So brace yourself to listen, here are some fascinating facts about “where I am.”

The Ngorongoro Conservation Area (hereafter referred to as NCA) in northern Tanzania was established 63 years ago (1959). It is an extension of the Serengeti (where we’re headed today). Seasonally, up to 2.5 million antelope, zebra, buffalo and wildebeests move around these two areas. The NCA is a UNESCO Mixed World Heritage Site and an International Man and Biosphere Reserve, and is often referred to as the 8^th Wonder of the World.

Size: NCA covers over 3,200 square miles of Africa’s wildlife, people, and archaeological sites. The heart of the NCA, the Ngorongoro Crater, with an area of 100 square miles and walls rising to a height of 2,000 feet, is the world’s largest intact volcanic caldera.

Wildlife: NCA, together with Serengeti National Park and other areas supporting the Serengeti ecosystem, supports the greatest concentration of wildlife on Earth. From June through October, the Serengeti Plains are dry, bare and dusty. From November through May, the rainy season, they turn lush green and millions of animals flood this rich pasture.

People: Over the past few thousand years, a succession of cattle-herding people colonized this area from the North. The Maasai arrived about 300 years ago from Ethiopia, coming down the Nile River. Today, approximately 64,000 Maasai pastoralists live in the area with their cattle, donkeys, goats and sheep.

Activities in the Area: Walking, camping, and game viewing safaris. Cultural tourism experiences among Maasai and Hadzabe tribes. Visits to archaeological findings at Olduvai Gorge.

Olduvai Gorge (Oldupai = Maasai spelling) is the historic place where Mary and Louis Leakey unearthed a jawbone in 1959, which pushed back the beginning of human evolution well past the 1.5 million year mark. The different kinds of hominids found here show a gradual increase in brain size and in the complexity of their stone tools. The Oldupai Museum is open daily at the Gorge, where visitors can learn more details of this fascinating story.

We pass through Olduvai Gorge on our way to Mbuzi Mawe Serena Tented Camp today, but with an 80+ -mile-drive on rutted dirt roads ahead, I’m guessing we won’t stop at the Museum. I’m listing interesting sites I see on the NCA map; you can check Google maps too. We have to travel along the Crater’s rim before beginning our descent; we’ll pass the Senato Gate which controls the Senato Descent Road into the Crater (Rick doesn’t remember if that’s the one they took). We’ll pass by Loonguku and Kiloko Cultural Bomas, all in the Oldupai Gorge; we’ll pass the road leading to Oldupai Museum, the Leakey Camp Research Station, Archeological Excavations, and Archeological Camp near Naiprosuet Hill. Then we enter the Serengeti Plain and Serengeti National Park. At the moment, all of this is just squiggles on a map. By tonight, they’ll be places I’ve been. Or at least, passed by.

Alphabetical Listing of More NCA Things To See

• Empakaai Crater: Tiny crater, 2 square miles, lake and forest, great views over the Rift Valley and the cone of Oldonyo Lengai.
• Lerai Forest: Small forest of yellow barked acacia trees on the Ngorongoro Crater floor.
• Nasera Rock: Huge monolith 328 feet high in the Goi Mountains.
• Oldonyo Lengai: Still active volcano; climb the steep slopes to see the steaming, bubbling activity.
• Olkarien Gorge: Narrow Gorge in the Goi Mountains; during the rains, Maasai bring cattle here to drink.
• Olmoti Crater: Shallow grassy crater and source of the Munge River which pours through a notch in a spectacular waterfall on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater.
• Shifting Sands: A little black sand dune marches across the plains, covering 56 feet a year; blown by a strong, steady wind, it maintains its size and elegant shape.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority https://www.ncaa.go.tz/

Mbuzi Mawe Serena Tented Camp https://www.serenahotels.com/mbuzi-mawe

Next Post: Famous Restrooms

It’s Worth It!

Linda Lou Burton posting from Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania– Gray. A soft, silent gray. That’s the first thing I saw when I opened my eyes. A misty fog came all the way to our balcony this morning. Unlike yesterday’s brilliant pink and orange highlighting that hundred-mile view across the Crater, today’s fog encased our balcony like a cuddle blanket. A lot of poems have been written about fog. Some complain that fog is an obstacle, blocking out what you want to see; others consider it a relief, a kind of protection from things you don’t want to deal with. For me this morning, it was the latter. I was not in the mood for another “luggage out for pickup before dawn then haul ass into the 4×4 for a 4-hour bumpy ride across a dusty plain” kind of day. It wasn’t that I didn’t want to see the Serengeti (one of the most famous National Parks in the world); it was more that I wanted, needed, to stay longer where I was. I wasn’t DONE with the Crater. Or the Lodge.

Despite the irritations of our specific tour’s missed deadlines and wanky upside down schedules that drained everyone’s strength and patience, none of that is a reflection on the facilities and services offered by the Lodge. The building is old and definitely not easy for those with walking difficulties to get around in; and its remote location makes it extremely difficult to get TO, but, I promise, it is so worth it! This is what they say about themselves:  The Ngorongoro Crater, a UNESCO World Heritage destination referred to as the Eighth Wonder of the World, is a location unlike any other in Tanzania and perhaps the world. Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge is an enchanting river-stone lodge seemingly fastened to the Crater rim by native vines, offering breathtaking views in every direction. With a mesmerizing expanse of plains, forests and lakes extending as far as the eye can see, the Lodge is surrounded by prehistoric stillness and landscapes. Arched stone passages and timbered decks, walls adorned with cave paintings and lit by flickering torches, and an eternally lit fireplace offer an incredible backdrop for your stay in Tanzania. From English breakfasts and sundowner cocktails at the Crater’s edge to game drives across the Crater floor and evening receptions with authentic Maasai music and dance performances, your stay will be distinguished by unforgettable moments.

Is that an exaggeration? I’d have to say NO, it’s not! So I need another week to mess around here, to sit on my balcony and just breathe; to have lunch and an all-day game drive in the Crater (maybe twice); to take a slow-morning nature walk around the grounds and rim; to watch the Maasai herding their cattle down the steep Crater walls; and to study the geology of this unusual part of the world. The Olduvai Gorge for one; one of the most important paleoanthropological localities in the world. Maybe I can just hide in the fog today, and they won’t miss me?

Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge https://www.serenahotels.com/ngorongoro/accommodation

Next Post: Squiggles On The Map

More From The Floor

Linda Lou Burton posting from Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania– Rick confirms: the Crater was a great place to spend a day. “The descent road was steep,” he said. “The 4×4 was right on the edge, good thing it was still dark.” He couldn’t give me specifics on the route they followed during the day; mostly a hodge-podge back-and-forth depending on where animals were spotted at a given point in time and information exchanged between drivers. “Not like Disneyland, where you know the Dancing Elephants will dance at 3:00 PM sharp and you buy a ticket for 3 PM!” They saw the lions having breakfast early on; they ate their own Boxed Breakfast – a boiled egg and pastries – “somewhere near a tree.” He switched between cameras; sometimes his phone; sometimes his Sony with the zoom lens. His photos illustrate what I observed from my balcony as I studied the map I’d bought the day before at the Visitor Center, trying to pinpoint specific places. The Crater has a variety of surprising landscapes! Ngoitokitok Springs with its picnic area is on the eastern edge of the Crater, east of Gorigor Swamp; Lerai Forest in the southwest, fairly close below the Serena Lodge. My map stars a number of Points of Interest: Old German Farm Ruins; Goose Ponds and Hippo Pool in Mandust Swamp; Tatoga Ritual Site on the western edge of Lake Magadi. Senato Springs. Ololowaru Springs. Approximately 25,000 large animals live in the Crater. Large mammals include elephants, black rhinos, Cape buffalo, and hippos. Other ungulates: blue wildebeest, Grant’s zebra, eland, Grant’s and Thomson’s gazelles, and  waterbucks; cheetah and leopard  are rarely seen. Absent are giraffe and crocodile. Although the Crater is a “natural enclosure” for most wildlife, many wildebeest and zebra vacate the Crater in the wet season. Cape buffalo stay; their highest numbers are during the rainy season. Take a look at some of the pictures Rick took on September 21, 2022,  down on the Floor. A variety of landscapes, a fair number of animals, and — other folks taking pictures!

Next Post: More About The Lodge and the Surrounding Area

Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge https://www.serenahotels.com/ngorongoro/accommodation

A 10-Minute Slice

Linda Lou Burton posting from Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania– Another promise kept. Partly. I promised a Post with Rick’s photos from his day in the crater, but gee, when I started looking at his photos, one 10-minute segment rose to the top like cream in a bucket of fresh Jersey milk. So here goes, a Beatrix Potter kind of story. For background, you need to know this: the lion population in Ngorongoro Crater is denser than anywhere else in Africa. Not the most lions of any protected area, but the most per square mile of land. And, they have their own ingrown quirks. Remember this: the Crater is a CLOSED area. The caldera is 100 square miles of land filled with grasses, water sources, and cover, often called a Garden of Eden. In other areas, such as the Serengeti-Maasai Mara, animals migrate by the millions in a year-round cycle, following food sources. In the Crater, they don’t have to. Climb Every Mountain isn’t their theme song; they just stay put! Rick and the gang came upon this pride (family) of Mom and Kids at meal time. Does Roger get to keep his chunk of zebra meat? Do his brothers manage to snatch it away? How does Mom manage the standoff? A cute (and typical kids!) story, any way you slice it.

Research on Ngorongoro Crater Lions https://kopelion.org/ngorongoro-lions/

This is KopeLion: KopeLion strives to foster human-lion coexistence in Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Here intensifying human-wildlife conflicts has been tough on the lions. In the last decades, the lions have begun to disappear entirely from their former ranges, separating the famous Ngorongoro Crater lions from the Serengeti. The area’s mission for harmonious coexistence is collapsing, with both people and wildlife losing out. KopeLion was founded in 2011 with the aim to change this trend. By working directly with residents, KopeLion strives for sustainable human-lion coexistence in Ngorongoro for the benefit of both people and lions. KopeLion, comprised of local experts and international scientists, employs former lion hunters to actively protect the remaining lions and reduce conflicts. Our work builds upon data collected over the last 50 years, representing the best-known, best-studied lions in the world. This offers the unique opportunity to measure the effects of our efforts on a population of lions, studied for generations.

The Ngorongoro Crater lion population is uniquely important. Studied almost continuously since 1963, it is the best-known, best-studied lion population in the world. Having become physically separated from the lion population in the nearby Serengeti National Park, the Crater lions have become a textbook example of the challenges facing an isolated inbred population. Our ongoing efforts to restore the connection between the Serengeti and the Crater offer a rare opportunity to measure the effects of lion conservation efforts in a population whose every member is individually recognized and observed over its entire lifespan. We receive a wealth of data on fine-scale movement, behaviors, and prey choice from a few “multi-use area lions” that we managed to GPS collar. One of the striking findings is lions’ capacity to adapt to living among people and livestock. While they clearly avoid areas with settlement and activities in the daytime, they seem to hesitate little to pass close by homesteads in the night.

Next Post: More From The Crater Floor

To Die For

Linda Lou Burton posting from Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania– A promise kept. My room at Ngorongoro Serena Lodge has a splendid, to-die-for private balcony overlooking the Crater, just as promised. Nothing is visible from my own private balcony but the Crater. Just: CRATER. I am happy with that. It’s Rick’s view too, but he’s down IN Crater today, while I am sitting on my (at this moment) own private balcony, looking AT it. Kinda makes me feel like God or something. At worst, an eagle. I started looking at Crater at 5:50 AM; that’s when the sun’s rays pinked it to life. Rick was long gone by then, and it was chilly on the balcony, but I made myself a cup of tea, wrapped a blanket around, and just sat there looking. Then, my head filled with images of crater-from-my-own-balcony, I crawled back into bed, still hoping to catch up on desperately needed sleep.

We didn’t get to the Lodge until 7:30 last night; after check-in and dinner and everything else, lights out was way after 10. Our drive from the Visitor Center (where Ben pulled his double-cross) was like something from a Washington Irving tale; the Headless Horseman riding through the dark at break-neck speed? Instead of a horse, we were in a 4×4 on a winding, rocky, unlit stretch of road going up the side of a mountain. Willy did his best, God love his soul, driving fast; we were running two hours late. A safari driver expects to drive in daylight hours, stopping frequently to watch animals doing animal things, right? A frightened baby buffalo was the only thing we saw in that wild ride, caught in our headlights as we rounded a curve.

Later I’ll reflect on (and probably laugh about) all the things that have gone haywire in the first two days with Ben as our guide. But today, I have my balcony!

Look at what I looked at as the day progressed. All rooms in this two-story Lodge overlook the same awe-inspiring spectacle: The Ngorongoro Crater, the world’s largest inactive, intact and unfilled volcanic caldera. It is 2,000 feet deep and its floor covers 100 square miles. Lake Magadi is the seasonal salt lake in the center of the crater; there are many springs and swamps on the crater floor, important water supplies for the animals and the local Maasai. Note in some photo zooms trees, swamps, vehicles, and animals.

Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge https://www.serenahotels.com/ngorongoro

Next Post: Rick’s Photos From In The Crater

Double Cross Cross

Linda Lou Burton posting from Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania– It was 4:15 when we left Tloma school, all smiles and warm-glowy feelings. Such a good visit, such a happy buzz of conversation in the 4×4 as we headed down the road, stirring up a trail of red dust. I was calculating in my head: 25 miles to the rim of the Crater, we’d be checked into our Lodge and sitting on our balconies in time to see the sun set, oh yeah! (Sunset 6:30, keep in mind.) “But lo”, my scrappy angel said, “your 4×4 seems to be pulling into the drive of a small building just minutes from the school. And lo! Stopping.” Elephants and zebras and acacia trees captured on canvas, hanging on a line. Sailboats even! “We’re stopping here,” Ben said, “so you can browse around and find some nice paintings to buy. Some memories of Tanzania.” I looked at the scrappy angel sitting on my shoulder and vowed not to complain. Everyone else hustled out of the 4×4 and began browsing. Ben stayed with me. “Let’s talk about tomorrow,” he said. “We have decisions to make.” “Okay,” I responded, aiming for pleasant, “let’s talk.” Our schedule for tomorrow was ”All Day Game Drive in the Crater with Picnic Lunch.” Since the Crater was one of my main reasons for coming to Africa, I’d resolved since making my February trip deposit to go on THAT Game Drive if no other. Karen Blixen’s House and the Ngorongoro Crater, my two objectives.

I told Ben of my enthusiasm for the day ahead, a full day in the Crater, with picnic lunch. “We could do that,” he said. “Or, we could leave at 4:30 and be in the Crater before daylight. We could have BREAKFAST in the Crater and be back at the Lodge for lunch.” My scrappy angel shook a finger at me; warned me to stay cool. “We’ve had a really busy day today,” I said to Ben, in my most diplomatic tone. “A 4:30 departure in the morning would be a tight timeline. People would be more rested if we stuck to the original plan and departed at 6:30.” Ben nodded pleasantly and agreed. “You’re right, 4:30 is pushing it. We’ll stick to the plan.” We chatted more; he told about his studies; a Masters Program in Tourism (that school in Arusha I mentioned earlier); he told about his areas of interest; his goals after that.

The browsers returned (no purchases); our journey continued, dusty road to tarred road; at 5:30 we reached the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Visitor Center. “We’re going in,” Ben motioned to the other 4×4,  “so I can explain the Crater to you.” Inside we gathered around the giant relief map; Ben talked about the geology of the Crater; the Conservation Area today; the Great Migration; the wildebeests. “The wildebeests live in Kenya part of the year,” he said, “but they belong to Tanzania.” (Wildebeests have citizenship?) We fidgeted. My scrappy angel nodded off.

“Oh, about tomorrow,” Ben said, concluding his wildebeest claim, “if we leave the hotel at 4:30 in the morning we’ll be down in the Crater before daylight, in position to see the animals as they become active. We can have the hotel pack a box breakfast, and be back at the Lodge in time for lunch. You’ll have a free afternoon. Sound OK?” Like lemmings led to the sea, the gang nodded, “Yeah, sounds great.” I stood up. “Wait! The original plan was LUNCH in the Crater, leaving at 6:30 in the morning, not 4:30. And that’s what you agreed we’d do.”

All eyes back to Ben. “Who wants to see the most animals?” he questioned. Eight hands rose. “Who wants to sleep in and see fewer animals?” he asked then, looking at me. Ah, well, my scrappy angel was dialing up KARMA at that very moment.

Next Post: Notes From The Balcony of Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge https://www.serenahotels.com/ngorongoro